Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its heart: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
